John, Debbie (who ues a wheelchair) and their two children did a Tanzanian safari.
First let me clarify; the Lakes in question are us, that is John, (me), my wife Debbie, and our two children, James aged fourteen and Holly ten.
Debbie has had multiple sclerosis for over ten years now and is wheelchair bound, so to find ourselves in the arrivals lounge at Kilimanjaro airport in Tanzania was a little surreal and something we never imagined was possible.
It was only after talking to Yvonne and Esther from Go Africa Safaris that we realised a safari holiday might be possible. An itinerary was planned specifically for us, suitable accommodation was pre-booked and we were to have sole use of an adapted land-cruiser with our own driver for the duration of our stay.
After an exceedingly warm welcome, Yvonne and Esther accompanied us to our first stop; Rivertrees Country Inn, in Arusha, where they spent a great deal of time making sure we were happy with the forthcoming trip.
We were introduced to our driver, Peter, who turned out to be most helpful and accommodating. He always showed the utmost concern for Debbie and took great care in making sure she was as comfortable as possible at all times. He was great with the kids and never seemed to be bothered by their constant questions.
The vehicle was adapted so that the wheelchair could be safely locked into position, good for passengers who cannot transfer to the car seats. Two sets of ramps and a shower/ commode chair were also provided. We’d brought our own hoist so declined the offer of using the company one. Unlimited bottled water was also on hand for the many hours we’d be spending on the road.
Arusha is a fertile area of Tanzania and the lush gardens of Rivertrees reflected this. The owner Martina and her staff made us feel at home straight away and we spent two lovely nights there. Monkeys chattered in the trees and a couple of times they even crept up onto the patio of our bungalow in search of tit-bits.
The bungalow was great for disabled access although the gravel path leading to it would be tricky in a manual wheelchair. Luckily Debbie had an electric one which made the job much easier. Martina is looking at improving disabled access and was more than happy to listen to our suggestions.
Our next stop was the Tarangire Sopa Lodge located in the heart of the Tarangire National Park.
Our first sight of Zebra and Wildebeest was amazing; passing unusual fauna such as the sausage tree we were soon staring open-mouthed at grazing elephant and inquisitive baboons.
The giraffe really is a strange looking creature but silhouetted against a single baobab tree, it seemed to encapsulate the whole spirit of Africa.
Martina had said that ‘You either get Africa or you don’t’, we definitely got it
Our lodge was one of a chain that is dotted around Tanzania and Kenya. Some of the slopes around the grounds were a little steep but perfectly manageable with a wheelchair. Besides, there was always a member of staff around, more than willing to lend a hand. I don’t think we ever had to ask for help once.
Lunch was taken around the very attractive swimming pool. We’ve never eaten with a sleeping bat hanging from our parasol before.
The choice and quality of food was excellent at any meal time.
British hoteliers should visit these lodges and take note of how well all the guests are treated and also how all of the staff are so friendly and welcoming.
Debbie was a little tired and had an afternoon nap. Peter was more than happy to take the kids out for an afternoon game drive whilst I relaxed and read my latest Stephen King novel.
Next on our itinerary was a trip to Lake Manyara national park. Another stunning setting, with an abundance of wildlife. It was here where we had our first sighting of lions as well as hippo. Impala and Thompson’s gazelle mingled amongst the elephant and water buffalo; an animal that now has my utter respect. Up close, the power of this creature was tangible.
Yvonne and Esther had selected the Ngorongoro Farmhouse as a stop-over that night, and it was another superb choice. (Although by selecting the lower lodge, the slope up to the dining room was a bit of an adventure). It is a working coffee farm and has a colonial feel to it. The gardens were beautiful and the flowers gave it an almost English look.
The sunset that night was spectacularly red, the sun appeared to have been covered in a crimson cloak.
It happened to be my birthday; the dining staff brought a cake out and sang a song in Swahili followed by ‘Happy Birthday’. A small, but very kind and much appreciated gesture.
Next was the Serengeti; David Attenborough territory. We departed about 9.00 am. I have to mention at this point that at no time did we have to be up at the crack of dawn in order to catch the best of the wildlife. Peter knew where the prime locations were and told us not to worry, ‘The animals will wait for us’. He was more concerned that ‘Mamma’ (Debbie), was not too tired and could enjoy the days as much as we were.
Half an hour into the Serengeti national park, the land-cruiser had a puncture. Peter seemed relaxed as he changed the wheel; I was more concerned about lions!
The Serengeti Sopa Lodge is in a dramatic setting. Built on a hillside it affords spectacular views across the savannah. The man-made watering hole attracts much wildlife and again the pool was fantastic.
We spent three wonderful nights here. The game drives were incredible. Cheetah, lion, leopard, and even the elusive rhino were captured on our camera. Peter took us to an almost dried up river bed, where we able to watch a pride of lions as they waited for some nearby wildebeest to pass. Our patience ran out before theirs, but that we’d been within ten feet of something we’d only ever seen on television was truly memorable.
It was while staying here that disaster struck; the electric hoist that we’d transported all the way from England broke down. Despite the best efforts of the hotel staff we couldn’t get it to work. Deb was distraught, how would she be able to transfer to the bed or to the toilet chair? I contacted Yvonne who arranged for their hoist to be transported from Kenya, where the company is based, to the Tanzanian border. Peter, our driver set off at daybreak and drove to the border to pick it up. For the one night we were without a hoist, the hotel staff were more than happy to help me transfer Debbie as needed.
We are just not used to this level of customer care; here we were in the middle of the Serengeti and less than twenty-four hours after the initial problem, the situation had been successfully resolved.
If Deb was too fatigued to visit the dining area, meals were brought to our room, always with a smile and a feeling of genuine care.
Eating dinner on our third and last night in the restaurant, one of the staff approached us and asked, seeing how we were such a ‘wonderful family’ if they could perform a song for our benefit. Even an old cynic like me was moved by this gesture, and just in case you are wondering, we were not asked for any money. We never at any time felt intimidated into tipping, although quite often we did. The offers of help were always genuine and heartfelt.
It was with real sorrow that we left the lodge. Peter as efficiently as ever had the vehicle waiting for us, and after loading up we set off on the drive to the Ngorongoro crater.
This is a massive extinct volcanic crater which is only accessible via a very steep drive down. It proved to be more than worthwhile though, as the wildlife was again incredible. Once more we were lucky enough to spot rhino, and by now we were all rather blasé about seeing elephant and lion. After parking up near the lake we enjoyed, albeit a rather chilly, picnic. James did nearly lose a sandwich to a swooping eagle, but it served him right for waving it about in the air.
The Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge was our hotel for the night. Yvonne and Esther had made sure that wheelchair access was not a problem wherever we stayed but this was the most disabled friendly room we’d had, as it had a roll in shower. Once more the service and food was top class. As it was June, Tanzania was just emerging into springtime, so it was a little cold at times, especially perched on high, overlooking the extinct volcano. Deb and I were given three hot water bottles to keep us nice and warm in bed that night.
The dining room was fantastic and our waiter Godlove, proved to be as friendly and helpful as everyone else we’d met on our holiday.
The game drives were over; we returned to Rivertrees for our last night before leaving for England. Martina the owner, and Zablon, one of the staff, welcomed us as old friends. That night we enjoyed a barbeque, mingling with some American voluntary workers, and then relaxed by the open fire with a bottle or two of Kilimanjaro, the local beer.
Some of the roads had been a little tough on Debbie; she has no lower limb control and although safely strapped in, she did get bumped around. This was a safari however, so some discomfort was not surprising and I know Go Africa are looking at this situation. We couldn’t fault any of the accommodation from an access point of view, and as I’ve already said, the staff were so helpful and friendly.
We flew with Ethiopian airlines, mainly because they were less than half the price of K.L.M, the only other operator that flies into Kilimanjaro from Europe. A pleasant surprise however was again how helpful the staff were. As ever the only problems occurred at Heathrow. The company who deal with disabled services are appalling.
There’s always a delay in waiting for the aeroplane wheelchair, and it always turns up with someone who is absolutely clueless in how to handle a disabled passenger. However, the transfers at Addis Ababa and Kilimanjaro were swift and efficient; Common sense prevailing over ridiculous health and safety regulations.
I’ve asked the kids if they’d rather go to Disneyworld on the next big holiday we can afford, but they’ve both said that another safari would be much better. If the driving could be a little more comfortable, then Debbie would love to return.
So, from the once in a lifetime trip that we’d planned, it’s now a question of, ‘when can we go back?’
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