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Ethiopia
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Wheelchair
travellers to Ethiopia - whatever their
disability - can expect to be the centre
of attention. Despite the fact that the
country has more than its fair share of
disabled people, for an Ethiopian, the novelty
of seeing a white person in a wheelchair
is reason enough to stop whatever you are
doing and stare - I've even been moved on
by local officials for being what's probably
best translated as a 'public nuisance' by
allowing a crowd of interested onlookers
to build up around me. This isn't 'faranji
fever' - far from it - it is surprise and
curiosity, which rapidly becomes genuine
sympathy and a willingness to help. For
this reason, travelling in Ethiopia as a
wheelchair user, despite all the obvious
difficulties, can be much easier than you
would at first imagine. Indeed, in some
ways this reliance that you will have on
the local people helps to bridge the divide
between you as a tourist and the resident
Ethiopian.
Accessibility
and accommodation
Hotels, restaurants and other public buildings
in Ethiopia do not, as a rule, cater for
wheelchair users. If you are planning a
mid-range or budget holiday, then you'll
need to compromise and improvise.
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Hotels
and restaurants
Only the top-of-the-range hotels in Addis
have fully functional accessible bathrooms,
lifts and wide doorways. Outside of Addis
I found no bathroom doorway wider than
70cm, so options vary from being lifted
into the bathroom (for people who cannot
walk) to showering with buckets in the
open air. The latter is indeed an invigorating
feeling and you'll find your wheelchair
dries in half an hour of Ethiopian sunshine.
Restaurants are normally ground floor
or up a couple of steps.
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General
access
The biggest problem with access to public
buildings (banks etc) is getting to the
entrance; there are almost always steps
from street level. There are however,
always people desperate to help, and as
long as you give good instruction on how
best to lift your chair and remain in
control of the situation, then steps are
no problem. When visiting banks, this
ability to 'remain in control' or at least
to appear to be confident is of great
importance, as you are obviously vulnerable
and will be carrying more cash than normal.
People who help you like this in the street
do not usually expect tips; it is done
purely as a gesture of goodwill.
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On
foot - In most towns, but especially
Addis, pavements (if there are any), are
crowded, often potholed, and have high
kerbs. I found it easier to use the streets
as I normally had enough of an entourage
to be visible to motorists and cyclists
and it generally feels less 'claustrophobic'.
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Taxis
- Taxis are cheap and readily available,
but are often old saloon cars (Fiats and
Ladas) and the seat padding (if present)
won't provide much of a cushion between
you and the bumps. If you use a pressure-relieving
cushion on your wheelchair, then it may
be wise to use it in taxis too. The driver
is normally very happy to help with transfers,
and I'd always offer a bit more cash for
this help. 2wd Toyota Hiluxes are also
often used as taxis and may be more suitable
for people without a folding chair as
they have more room for storage.
Travelling
between towns
If you do not have your own vehicle, then
you have three main options when travelling
between towns in Ethiopia.
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Buses
- Whether or not you can use public transport
will depend entirely on your ability to
transfer into buses and sit long periods
in dusty, hot and uncomfortable spaces
without being in control of journey times.
It isn't all bad - if you can use Ethiopian
buses you will experience much more of
the local culture and your costs will
be greatly reduced.
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Private vehicle hire - Four-wheel
drives (usually Toyota Landcruisers) can
be hired from tour operators in most of
Ethiopia's main towns. This not a cheap
option (normally around 125$ U.S. per
day) but that does include driver and
fuel. These vehicles are higher than normal
cars, making transferring from a wheelchair
more difficult. The driver will always
be willing to help and an increased tip
would only be reasonable. This method
of transport gives you the freedom to
choose when to take a break from the continuous
rumble of Ethiopia's gravel roads, is
much more 'bum-comfortable' than local
buses and obviously gives you much more
itinerary freedom.
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Flying
- If you have limited time, then flying
is the only way to cover the distances
in Ethiopia. Ethiopian Airlines generally
provides a very good (and flexible) service,
although there are some points worth noting.
1.
Medical report. It is unlikely,
but wheelchair users can be asked
for a 'medical report' before flying
within Ethiopia. A form can be obtained
from any Ethiopian Airlines office
and must be completed by a doctor
after a quick medical examination
(blood pressure etc). The medical
will cost about 15 birr. Another option
may be to take a letter from your
doctor at home stating that you're
fit to fly, and outlining reasons
for any medication you carry. This
should satisfy even the most fervent
airport official.
2.
Transfers and seating. Ethiopian
airports don't have aisle chairs,
so anyone unable to walk can expect
to be carried manually from ground
level to their seat. The staff doing
this are seldom trained and it's not
a good idea for them to discover that
they don't know what they are doing
halfway up the steps, with you in
their arms - they may need firm guidance!
The safest solution is for you to
take entire control of the situation,
and demand to be lifted as suits you
best.
3.
For people with pressure relieving cushions,
using your own wheelchair cushion is
even more essential than normal, as
some internal flights only have unpadded
canvas seats.
Health
Ethiopian hospitals are basic and none too
clean by western standards, but doctors are
experienced - especially in illnesses typical
to Africa - and therefore should be trusted.
It is essential for anyone with special medical
needs (catheters etc.) to completely understand
their own care requirements and carry ALL
clean, spare equipment they may need, as it
is unlikely that the hospital will have anything
useful. Cash will be required there and then,
and receipts for your insurance company will
normally be given on demand.
Climate
Most of the country - due to the high altitude
- is fairly temperate, but it can still be
hot. Common sense applies here - if you struggle
in severe heat then try to do your travelling
and sightseeing in the mornings and evenings.
A plant spray-bottle of water is an ideal
sweat-replacement tool.
Assistance
It is relatively easy to find someone to assist
with tasks like washing and dressing etc.
Africans are (through necessity) resourceful
and adaptable people, which are two qualities
required in this job, and throughout Ethiopia
there is huge unemployment. The best way of
finding someone reliable is by asking for
recommendations from tour operators.
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If you would like more detailed information, including
names of local contacts, personal assistants and
specialist operators, please contact
me. |
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