With
crowded markets and narrow, often
bumpy streets, Zanzibar sounds like
the last place you'd want to venture
to if you have difficulties walking.
Wheelchairs and sandy beaches just
don't agree, and to cap it all,
Zanzibar's island status provides
more logistical problems, forcing
you to ask if the getting there
is actually worth it.
It is. A Zanzibar experience is
unique, and with some preparation,
patience, and the innate helpfulness
of the local people, you will be
surprised by just how possible it
is.
Getting
there and away
The ferries from Dar es Salaam are
not an easy option. Boarding on
Zanzibar is via a gangplank, which
is steep at low tide and can be
difficult even for able-bodied people
with luggage. On board there are
various decks with stairways between
them and there are no facilities
to make mobility easier.
A quicker more comfortable and more
practical (albeit more expensive)
option is to fly. The airport staff
reportedly cope well with disabled
passengers, although you will need
to be manually lifted in and out
of the small 13-seater planes which
are used for many flights from Dar
to Zanzibar.
Accommodation
Put simply, I know of no completely
wheelchair-friendly accommodation
on Zanzibar. Most buildings' entrances
are at least one step up from street
level, and cheaper hotels are often
small. However, there are many establishments
throughout the island that can be
construed as accessible, depending
on your abilities and your willingness
to compromise. The more upmarket
the hotel is, the greater the chance
that the rooms and bathrooms will
be spacious, and that conveniences
like bedside telephones will be
present.
Unless you are going to have the
time and energy to look for accommodation
on arrival, the best advice is to
research your options in advance.
Specialist tour operators will normally
take time to listen to your needs,
or if you prefer, many hotels can
be found directly on the internet.
If photos aren't available, the
owners are easily contacted and
can describe their facilities by
email.
Restaurants
Many eateries are on the ground
floor, with one or two steps at
the entrance. The proprietors will
want your custom, so if you fancy
eating there, you can be sure they
will quickly organise a couple of
waiters to help you in.
Transport
Buses and dala dalas are cramped,
with no facilities for wheelchairs,
and getting off and on can be a
hectic affair. Therefore, unless
you can walk at least to some degree
then taxi is going to be your only
easy way of getting around. Drivers
will be happy to assist with transfers,
but are obviously not experienced
in this skill so you must be assertive
and explain clearly what help you
need. Tour companies often use minibuses
- higher than taxis - for spice-farm
visits and other excursions. This
means you may need help from two
people to transfer. It is always
advisable for people prone to skin
damage to sit on their wheelchair
cushion in the vehicle as it may
be old, meaning the seating won't
give as much support as it once
did.
Health
Doctors will know about 'everyday'
illnesses, but you must understand
and be able to explain your own
particular medical requirements.
African hospitals are often basic,
so if possible, take all necessary
medication and equipment with you.
It is advisable to pack this in
your hand luggage during flights
in case your main luggage gets lost.
Zanzibar is hot all year. If this
is a problem for you, a plant-spray
bottle is an ideal cooling aid.
Security
The usual advice applies to all
travellers, but it is worthwhile
remembering that, as a disabled
person, you are more vulnerable.
Stay aware of who is around you
and where your bags are, especially
during car transfers and similar.
These activities often draw a crowd,
and the confusion creates easy pickings
for an opportunist thief.
Activities
Stone Town tours, spice-farm visits
and many other excursions are certainly
possible. Inform your guide or tour
company in advance of what you can
and cannot do and they will make
an appropriate itinerary. For some
visitors, many of the older buildings
will prove impenetrable. For instance,
there is a ramp up to the Palace
Museum but then staircases inside
with no lifts.
Beaches will always be naturally
difficult for wheelchair users.
I've still not heard of anyone on
Zanzibar using a beach wheelchair
(wheelchair with massive tyres to
ride on soft sand), but I have no
doubt this will come. Until then,
we'll need to be content with sipping
a cool drink in the shade with a
good book. Is that so bad?